Sunday Afternoon in Alsace

By Leah

With my boys going to watch FC Basel play the Young Boys in the Swiss Super League, I decide to part ways and drive into the Alsace region of France. One of the International School moms recommends a few towns for an afternoon of wandering. I drive an hour northeast of Basel, through farmlands, onto Alsace’s Route des Vins, and to my first town of Riquewihr.

Alsace is famous for half-timbered architecture that may make you think of Germany, but probably makes you think of Disneyworld (as an aside everyone should read this old article on Disneyworld, marriage, parenting and marijuana; it’s still good!).

Alsace is also famous for its food and wine. Alone and not courageous enough to sit by myself for a full meal despite the New Yorker in my bag (finally arrived!), I only get a taste. I try the macarons and honey nonnettes (gingerbread cakes) in a patisserie. I taste some cremant d’alsace in a wine cave. From afar, I admire the coq au riesling and tarte flambé eaten at outdoor restaurants by families who love their moms more than football.

After Riquewihr, I drive 15 minutes through more vineyards to another medieval town, Kayserberg, that’s famous for its Sainte Croix church and nearby castle. The clouds are low, it’s chilly for August, and I start to crash from my nonnette high, feeling that how-did-summer-end-so-fast melancholy feeling.

I hike up to the castle and the high fortress is a reminder of the region’s involvement in many wars, passing back and forth between Germany and France. There are some great views of the valley and I can look back on Riquewihr.

Then on to my final medieval town of Eguisheim, with its concentric streets rounding several churches and the ruins of three castles.

In Eguisheim, I visit the Chapelle Saint-Léon IX, think “why am I here???” and then leave, noting the storks nesting in the church bell tower. I now see their nests on each of the churches; they are apparently unperturbed by ringing bells.

I look but refrain from buying Alsace pottery in a couple shops. With macarons, honey nonnettes and a Leon Beyer Riesling in tow for the football fans, I head home to hear about the game. I’m already plotting my return trip for some serious food and wine tasting. Perhaps when Dad and Christy visit in October!